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01/26/2020
Meggi
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Meggi
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Unhappy balance
Maritime isn't very high on my list of likes and dislikes. But since 'Copal Azur' offered me a successful symbiosis between a certain wateriness and smoke, unchecked reservations are of course invalid. The paper test at the Armani booth in the Alsterhaus promised a closeness to the Duchaufour for 'Bleu Turquoise', a well-filled tester (they are now with a dotted head; on this topic see Commi to Musc Shamal) was directly available with.
In the foreground, the resemblance to the older colleague from Aedes de Venustas (from 2014) is indeed astonishing, except that Armani was seasoned with pepper instead of clove. For the present maritime approach I am considering, besides the usual suspects, vetiver salt.
The only problem is that when I first tested 'Copal Azur', which was done without knowing the information in the shop, I hadn't thought of anything maritime at all. And since then (I own the fragrance) his contribution has been pleasingly discreet.
With today's candidate, the perfumer's hand has unfortunately slipped in this regard and I find it far too much. Within a short time, the fragrance is surrounded by a brackish, musty impression, which bites quite unpleasantly with the vanilla sweetness. A scraped, dusty, scratchy surface doesn't make things better.
In my opinion, either the Salzig-Maritime should have been added to the sweetness or vice versa. The equal weighting, however, causes me to be quite reluctant. I hardly like to smell the sprayed back of my hand in order to search more carefully for possible other aromas and so I have to stay a little on the surface. Further days of testing brought neither change nor habituation.
It doesn't help me much that the brackish mood is ultimately limited in comparison to other fragrances (especially those newcomers from the cheaper corner, which end quickly and completely) and on top of that, a gentle splashing helps in the afternoon. I don't get more than a "Goes like this" backwards for me.
Bottom line: Not for me.
In the foreground, the resemblance to the older colleague from Aedes de Venustas (from 2014) is indeed astonishing, except that Armani was seasoned with pepper instead of clove. For the present maritime approach I am considering, besides the usual suspects, vetiver salt.
The only problem is that when I first tested 'Copal Azur', which was done without knowing the information in the shop, I hadn't thought of anything maritime at all. And since then (I own the fragrance) his contribution has been pleasingly discreet.
With today's candidate, the perfumer's hand has unfortunately slipped in this regard and I find it far too much. Within a short time, the fragrance is surrounded by a brackish, musty impression, which bites quite unpleasantly with the vanilla sweetness. A scraped, dusty, scratchy surface doesn't make things better.
In my opinion, either the Salzig-Maritime should have been added to the sweetness or vice versa. The equal weighting, however, causes me to be quite reluctant. I hardly like to smell the sprayed back of my hand in order to search more carefully for possible other aromas and so I have to stay a little on the surface. Further days of testing brought neither change nor habituation.
It doesn't help me much that the brackish mood is ultimately limited in comparison to other fragrances (especially those newcomers from the cheaper corner, which end quickly and completely) and on top of that, a gentle splashing helps in the afternoon. I don't get more than a "Goes like this" backwards for me.
Bottom line: Not for me.
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