Sunshineboy

As my username suggests, I am a child of the sun.
I love summer with all its facets. Temperatures over 35°C, tanned skin, stagnant thick air, sunglasses? I love it, even the sultriness!

Why am I talking about summer in my introduction?
For me, it could be August for twelve months of the year. There are few things I miss about other seasons. I don't like snow and mulled wine, or the harsh, barren days of fall (which undoubtedly have beauty), let alone spring and its crazy weather.

One of the few things I miss is wearing fragrances like "Colonia Leather (Eau de Cologne Concentrée) | Acqua di Parma".
I'm generally a big fan of leather fragrances. This is probably due to my long-standing preference for leather shoes, bags and belts.
"Colonia Leather (Eau de Cologne Concentrée) | Acqua di Parma" is my favorite in the leather fragrance category.

Thanks to the fresh ingredients, Colonia Leather is neither dark nor animalic, as is often the case in leather ranges.
More common, however, is the combination with rose. Colonia Leather was a beautiful fragrance for me until the rose in the heart note came in. For me, the drydown is the best ever.
What remains on the back of my hand is an elegant, dry, perfumed rose.

The projection is good, above average for AdP. Lasting power is also very satisfactory.
The lighter touch makes Colonia Leather pleasant to smell for other noses.
I wear the fragrance on dates, occasions of all kinds, as well as at work.
Certainly a fragrance named after leather can be fashionably styled to match an outfit. However, I don't find this necessary with CL. I personally own other perfumes for that ;)
So far I have only received positive feedback, even if the opinions of others should not play a role in a fragrance review, at least in my eyes.

For me, the leather/rose combination makes it an absolute must-have!
The price is also fair for a niche fragrance. Since I was able to buy it at auction, I really can't complain about the money I spent, on the contrary.
I am evaluating the cheapest offer on the internet for just over 135€ in a 100ml bottle.

Definitely worth a purchase. By the way, my Colonia Leather was a blind buy. The best one I've made so far.
Incidentally, it's the only AdP that I own in a bottle because, as already described, the price and H/S are right for me.

Since the Brazilian brand Granado from Rio is completely unrated here on EssenceVitae, I will make the greatest possible effort as the first reviewer.

I became aware of "Boemia | Granado" through a fashion influencer.
Although I don't allow myself to be influenced stylistically and olfactorically and go my own way, I like to google or research new impressions.

I was curious about the combination of the top notes of lime, black pepper and nutmeg.
I imagined the lime to be unsweet due to the black pepper, but at the same time spicy to a certain extent due to the nutmeg.
How would rose, leather and incense blend in?

For the sake of the pyramid - and not for the sake of the influencer - I went online to look for a bottle.
The standard price of the perfume is probably around €120.
On Ebay, I was able to buy a 75ml bottle for €75 by private treaty. Quite alright for a blind buy.

From then on, I waited anxiously for my parcel to arrive.
I opened it immediately and sprayed myself.

First of all, my nose was hit by a certain alcoholic scent, which faded after a few seconds.
In fact, I had already assessed the fragrance well in advance.
What surprised me was its warmth.
Spicy warm is probably the best description for "Boemia | Granado".

As mentioned, the beginning of the fragrance is very warm, almost sweet without being so.
The nutmeg and pepper made me think of a spice stock.
Whole peppercorns heated in a pan - anyone who knows what that smells like will understand what I mean. The pepper becomes softer and more balsamic - blending (according to my mind game) with various aromas.
At the same time, the fragrance remains relatively straightforward.
It could certainly have been made even more refined, for example with chilli/cinnamon/cardamom.

As the fragrance progresses (15-30 minutes, depending on perception), it becomes somewhat darker. The pepper becomes sharper and the lime more citrusy and tangy.
Incense and cedar join in and gradually dictate the tone.
Leather and sandalwood finally underpin the fragrance.
In the drydown, dry rose remains at the end, which I generally like.

In addition to the spice association, I intuitively thought "my father could also wear this fragrance".
It is not an old-fashioned fragrance, even if I consider it unsuitable for under-21s.

As I wanted to find out more about the Granado brand, I did some research, as I often do.
Interestingly, "Boemia | Granado" is listed in the "Vintage" line on the website.
I had to smile, as the 80's impression was probably not entirely wrong.
If I had to describe the fragrance in colors, I would choose the colors orange-olive green. Because of the warmth and spice mentioned.

Now to the performance and overall summary:
As those around me are used to me wearing different fragrances, I am not often asked about perfumes in my circles.
Rather, my people simply think something like "Sunshineboy is wearing something new again". Because I'm not a compliment getter either, I don't ask those around me for their opinion either, as I have to like a perfume myself in order to wear it.
It is therefore difficult to say anything about the sillage.
I don't think it's too strong, whereas the longevity of over 12 hours is extremely satisfactory for the money I paid.
The bottle is solid, nothing earth-shattering.

The conclusion is therefore that I am completely satisfied.
I'll leave it open at this point whether I would have consciously picked up the fragrance in a perfumery for €120.
If Boemia wasn't from 2020, I could imagine that the perfume could have been a bestseller in past decades.

I smelled you for the first time on a glass cannula in a perfumery.
I was blown away.
On the verge of buying you, reason prevailed.
"Think about it again," I said to myself and left the store, grateful for the experience.

Here on EssenceVitae, I bought a sample, which I tentatively used up.

What startled me was the divergence between the neutral smell (glass cannula) and the perception on my own skin

"Aoud | Roja Parfums" undoubtedly smells wonderfully luxurious.
The accompanying elegance cannot be denied.
Despite a fragrance experience, my first instinctive reaction; or rather question to myself was, "does this perfume suit you"?

Surely I would be complimented, most likely even "olfactory dyslexics" perceive the value of the perfume, yet the question of the match between "Aoud | Roja Parfums" and me

Why didn't I buy "Aoud | Roja Parfums" as a bottle?
In love, money does not matter, but a love should not / will not develop between us.

Oud is truly an extravagant fragrance element.
But too unisex for me.
I long for the day when I can consciously perceive this - or a similar oud fragrance - on a woman.
I will approach this woman in my imagination, invite her in and seduce her with excitement!

Ah...you Oud...
You are neither male nor female,
not at all penetrating or embarrassing.
You are beautiful,
yet you will not be listened to.
Without rough edges,
i'll give up on you for better or worse.

Suck it up. He is worth it. Whether you like him is up to you...

After weeks of testing, here is my review of "Black Gemstone | Stéphane Humbert Lucas".

After testing several fragrances from SHL and purchasing both "Black Gemstone | Stéphane Humbert Lucas" and "Mortal Skin | Stéphane Humbert Lucas", I now feel ready to review this one.

Why did I have to apply BG several times to be able to categorize it?
Because the fragrance is complex and multi-faceted.

Admittedly, the comments and reviews previously recorded here have created a certain expectation. That's why I first bought a sample before I ordered the perfume in a bottle.

"Black Gemstone | Stéphane Humbert Lucas" is different, truly niche.
In my perception, the citric top note mixes with a blackberry (not included in the pyramid).
Interestingly, a woman next to whom I was just having a quick espresso at the counter in a café perceived a cinnamon note.
She literally said in English immediately after I stood next to her to order: "Oh, it smells wonderfully of cinnamon here."

Why is "Black Gemstone | Stéphane Humbert Lucas" currently my favorite fragrance?
The fruit / citrus - some previous speakers here used the term cough drop - is corpulently fresh without being sweet, rather spicy.
As the fragrance progresses, myrrh and frankincense in particular blend into the fragrance without overpowering the top note. A wonderful fragrance progression.

H/S are also great. After spraying - I personally spray a maximum of four times - the fragrance is so concentrated that it starts to tingle in my nose.

Ultimately, the main reason why BG will be my current favorite fragrance and all-time staple fragrance in my collection.

After the self-perception of the perfume has worn off, I am always delighted to realize how much I enjoy smelling this fragrance.
For example, when putting on the previous day's scarf, which has absorbed the scent, or a gust of wind that brings it back to my nose in the streets.

Each time, time slows down for a moment as I pause and let the scent sink in.

I bow to the fragrance as well as the price. You have to want to afford this pleasure. Unlike other perfumes in this price segment, this is a clear recommendation to buy on my part.

Get a sample and wear it, I can only recommend it to you!

Although many reviews have already been written about Antaeus and Kouros, I would like to compare the two fragrances below.
Many browsers may be wondering - as I am for the time being - which fragrance to choose based on the countless references.
Despite my preference for prose and storytelling, here is a subjective and sober comparison.

To Antaeus:
Unlike many of the exuberant previous speakers, in my opinion Antaeus is not a fragrance that has fallen out of time.
Chanel's composition is not a fragrance that masculinizes young men or turns shy people into extroverts.
Rather, Antaeus emphasizes one's own character.
After buying a sample, I immediately put the sillage to the test: A dash and a half, let it work for a moment and off to the smokers' pub. Beer ordered, Ziagrette down my throat. Despite this, the scent is noticeable, not at all penetrating. Sillage at this point 9/10, so tooop. Dose carefully!

Short turnaround to Kouros:
The top note is much more space-consuming / penetrating. The smell of urinal toilet cited by the negative comments is directly in your nose.
It's understandable that some people perceive it that way.
In my opinion, Kouros behaves as follows:
Just like sweaters, moustaches or Birkenstock shoes, you either love it or hate it. Nothing in between. In contrast to Antaeus, a perfume that not only smells unique, but also requires uniqueness from the wearer.

Antaeus can also be worn at work or on a first date as a man with a strong character. Not for nothing at number 60 of the best-selling men's fragrances according to EssenceVitae.

Not Kouros, on the other hand:
I only wear YSL's fragrance on certain occasions.
In the (smokers') bar for a drink; strolling in a fur coat in winter, or strutting around in a half-open (short-sleeved) shirt in summer.
Kouros confirms the oft-mentioned 80s cliché. Like me, you don't have to be like that. But this is how you will be perceived.

Conclusion:
To cut a long story short, I own both. Antaeus as relatively commonplace, Kouros to stand out. The intensity for people who have never owned animalic fragrances is almost frightening. Antaeus for beginners, Kouros for the oft-cited guys with balls.
As they are also commercially available in small towns, you should definitely try them both.
Antaeus the zoo tiger, Kouros the untamed savannah lion.