Smeriglio

I would call it fresh rather than frozen. It is the smell of a very fragrant apple that creeps in right from the start and makes the opening fruity; it immediately mixes with the not-so-intense scents of lemon and mandarin. After five minutes, all this disappears and we enter the heart of the development: cardamom is the note that makes the perfume fresh, which is contrasted by the round spiciness of nutmeg; in the middle you can also feel the subtle presence of a flower (gardenia or jasmine). This is my favorite part. After about forty minutes, the central notes fade out and the base notes come out into the open; the scent loses freshness and becomes woody; you can smell the patchouli, the cedar wood is not in its most accentuated expression; they have inserted a contrasting amber note, which does not clash, being on the margin of the agreement. This fragrance has a high level structure; however it loses points because valuable raw materials were not used. On the other hand it wouldn't cost so little if they had used them.

This is a superior class composition in which many notes remain present throughout the duration of the perfume. Bergamot which is the most detectable citrus fruit, starts the games; mandarin remains in the background; you can smell the leaf of the latter or at least a green and bitter note. The fruit that is on the list fails to emerge, perhaps because it is not there. In the heart the flowers stand out, the narcissus which here has grassy nuances, the jasmine which adds a sensation of cleanliness. Then an earthy type of patchouli takes over. For the record, white musk propagates in the base, a quality of wood that could be guaiac. There is also a small amount of amber. Once the development is finished, the fragrance can appear like a classic eau de cologne, but with a floral presence, given by the narcissus, which makes it particular. In essence, the notes of bergamot, narcissus and patchouli do not dissolve completely, but are embedded in the base ones to give us a multifaceted experience.

Enclosed in the ultramarine blue bottle is a natural grapefruit juice scent that reflects the true smell of the squeezed fruit. The box of this perfume is colored in such a way as to recall the cabins of bathing establishments, i was actually attracted by the aesthetics of the packaging when, in the perfumery, i tried it for the first time. It begins, continues and ends with the grapefruit note always in the foreground. At the beginning, in addition to the grapefruit (which almost generates a thirst-quenching sensation), there is a modest contribution of bergamot, which disappears after about ten minutes. At this point, a light ozonic note begins to be felt in the background, but it is always the undaunted smell of grapefruit that dominates and makes you want to smell it again and again. There is also a subtle hint of green leaf that enriches the middle. You have to wait more than three hours for the projection to attenuate and for the white musk to reveal itself as the final note supporting the grapefruit and the only base note that is really present. This fragrance makes me think of a summer day spent in an Italian seaside tourist facility, where after putting on my bathing suit in a cabin (strictly colored with blue and white stripes) overlooking the beach, i relax lying on a sunbed, while i sip a grapefruit juice and I try to enjoy the relief of the sea breeze.

This Indian composition is commendable. The opening is more spicy than anything else and is marked by a succession of cardamom (present in significant quantities), a little bitter orange, saffron (which recalls the smell of hay), and a minimal quantity of ginger. It is a first part that we can enjoy for at least half an hour, after which a note of patchouli takes over, but the top notes do not all disappear at the same time, the freshness of the cardamom remains present which for a while mixes with the patchouli and a wood of barely perceptible cedar. Not many seconds later you start to smell the vetiver, I would define it as dark green, because it is initially affected by the presence of the patchouli. You can also perceive a contrasting amber edge. Then progressing towards the base, the fragrance takes on the characteristics of a vetiver with a light leathery nuance. The white musk note is not present. In summary I would define it as a woody, spicy and earthy fragrance. The key notes, which can be perceived even by those who are not experts, are cardamom, bitter orange, saffron, amber and vetiver.

An entrance on the scene that awakens the senses. You are intoxicated by a huge sprinkle of ginger as soon as you press the atomizer, which is followed by the bitter scent of an orange whose peel stands out. The bergamot somehow tries to add freshness, but it doesn't do it that much. After five minutes, this opening fades and the civet makes its way imposing its presence, not in an ultra animalic way. Contemporary in the background, the presence of anise plays a contrasting role. This fragrance is first and foremost animalic, it is not suitable for children or women who jump for joy when they smell vanilla, ambroxan or gourmand perfumes. It befits a hard man, who, just as he splits wood, also splits bones if someone endangers what he loves. Once the anise note has disappeared, next to the civet smell, for part of the development, I smell a bit of incense, which is not in the official list. About an hour and a half after opening, a light nuance, probably sandalwood and amber, adds complexity, tries to mitigate the animalic note, which however does not lose its strength.