JonasP1

In the breath of the roaring sea
Gliding on smoking waves
Past dark-crusted oud coasts
Amber dust blown away
Lays down like gauze
Around glowing resinous amber
Wrapped in spice
Thumps your Sultan Gris heart
Sheltered by sandalwood tonality...

Ahom World is a brand from the United Arab Emirates, co-founded by Zakir Laskar. Zakir Laskar, Zak for short, is also the co-founder of the perfume brand Dixit & Zak. Originally, Zak wanted to use the rare materials from Ahom World in modern perfumery, i.e. in Dixit & Zak. However, after discussions with Dixit & Zak's financial advisors and auditors, this was advised against, as the expensive investment could have a negative impact on return on investment and profitability and also make it difficult for Nitish Dixit and Zakir Laskar to work together. He therefore refocused on Ahom World, where he continues to create fragrances with rare raw materials, including Sultan Gris.

Sultan Gris is a tribute to the late Sultan Quaboos. Sometimes matured ambergris dust was used here, which wraps itself around the many umber-colored spices (over 30 different ones were used) like a gentle spiral of smoke.
The first thing I notice - apart from ambergris and a musky note - is a hint of cardamom, which lingers in a bowl of fine vintage Mysore sandalwood. The ouds come into play quite quickly, blending in perfectly with the rest. The Burmese vintage oud and the Indian oud are not overly animalic here; rather, they bring a dark woody-spicy, slightly leathery overall impression, so that the fragrance is not immediately overwhelming or even unpleasantly stale despite its complexity.
Onycha slightly softens the woody, smoky timbre and creates a resinous, secure atmosphere of warm, roasted mussel shells with a balsamic finish. The gently sweet saffron also blends very well into the composition here, even opening up an airy, fresh facet.
The seaweed, which would of course fit in well with the slightly maritime scent, is only to be understood as an ephemeral phenomenon here; it only brings a slightly salty note, which could also have its origins in the ambergris.

What remains: Glowing amber resins in the echo of spicy oud spheres, salty-smoky air floating above a sea of archaic ambergris dust... Escape: No use!

In summary, Sultan Gris is an incredibly beautiful and special phenomenon, whose quality, depth and grandeur immediately cast a spell over you. The dark, spicy brew impresses me above all with its beautiful, complex interplay of the many, well-dosed spices, the two ouds and, of course, the uncompromising use of vintage materials.

For those who are interested, here is a video of Zak mixing Sultan Gris: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhQ6suQxLuA

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Darkness spreads
Only streetlights flicker tired
Dead silence in the small town
The bandit creeps quietly away
Into deserted green-mossy valleys
It's cold
His leather cloak warms
Dark clouds are drifting
Soft neroli rain
Pattering on his narrow face
Galbanum walls the quiet fear within him
The moss-covered lake breathes tuberoses
Slowly the haze rises
Becomes one with nature
A long day lies behind the bandit
For over 10 hours he was on his feet
His steps are heavy, but silent
Not a daily routine even for a bandit
Suddenly he hears noises
The oak moss offers protection
The noises disappear
All just imagination?
No matter!
The bandit's strength wanes
In the oakmoss he spends the night
Dreaming of more adventures...

Bandit (2012) by Robert Piguet is a very beautiful and classic chypre fragrance with a leathery touch. It goes in quite a green direction and brings what I think is a very subtle and pleasant animalic. The tuberose contained in the fragrance I usually do not like, but here it was very pleasant and discreetly built. For me, Bandit (2012) is a very special Chypre fragrance, which is also due to the leather and the well-dosed oakmoss.


The first edition of Bandit is from 1944 and it was one of the first fragrances of this house. Unfortunately, the 1944 version is only expensive and hard to come by today. After a reissued eau de toilette from 1999 was not particularly well received, then came in 2012 this version of Bandit on the market and was again a great success, which is also relatively close to the original version. Unfortunately, Bandit (2012) was also discontinued again some time ago.

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It's been a long time since my last visit
So I'm off
Into the eucalyptus forest
The path leads through earthy trails
Wildflowers proliferate at the forest's edge
As colorful as the diversity of the woods
Soft rain drips on my skin
Finally arrived!
A long way lies behind me
My feet ache
But the high seat is not far
Slowly I climb up the mossy ladder
The herbal schnapps always with me
My gaze falls on the endless meadows
Dark green combines with light green
I watch the mushrooms grow
The wind smells of eucalyptus
A place that invites you to linger

Olympic Rainforest by Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes is a very authentic forest fragrance. The fragrance has at the beginning something of bitter medicine, paired with cedar. The quite pleasant note of mushrooms stretches through the entire course, but is never really scent-determining. After almost two hours, the medicinal-fresh notes recede into the background and the earthy-woody notes become more and more prominent. Only a sweetish note reminiscent of varnish bothers me minimally. But this disappears again after a very short time. I think the more you wear Olympic Rainforest, the more you like it. A great nature experience is this fragrance in any case.

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