DrB1414

Oriscent Pinoy LTD. Of the few Filipino oud oils available on the market today, I would say this is the best. I would even go as far as to say that it is not much inferior to its predecessor, Oud Royale II, to which it holds up rather well.

It opens up with the Oriscent "fumes" that only last for a few seconds, immediately leading to the body of the oil. I find this oil to be a bit of an abstract olfactory venture, in the sense that I can't pick up individual, tangible accords. It is bitter and resinous while simultaneously showcasing a beautiful, woody facet. In contrast to the Abu Yog oud oil, which felt more resinous than woody to me. It is a bit verdant, with a dense floral creaminess and a soft incense chord playing along the resinous core and the woody base. It has a slight oceanic touch with an overall blue or purple color, grounded by darker shades. The slightest of green runs through it. That Oriscent vaporous signature elevates it a bit, as opposed to Abu Yog, the latter feeling deeply anchored. I love the density this oil bears, the tangible woody base, and the medicinal bite it delivers. Comparing it to OR II, I find them quite similar after the first 1-2 hours. The part where OR II feels like a superior oil to me is not in the base. More in the top and the mid-phase. That oil feels more ethereal in the opening stages. Ozonic, violet-leaf, green ornated, adorned with white florals, creamy top notes compared to the heavy ones in Pinoy. It feels more crystalline and pure, an elevated oil, if you will. However, once they dry down, I find them rather similar. OR II is slightly smokier, a facet I only discovered when comparing them. I would say that Pinoy is just as good, and I can see how some might prefer it to its older brother.

IG:@memory.of.scents

Absolue Pour Le Soir. Experiencing this perfume would be quite a shock for people who endorse this house nowadays. I'll refrain from giving my opinion on their scents and aesthetics. I will say, however, that seeing how Francis wasted his potential by releasing cotton candy synthetic bombs at the expense of works such as this one is rather disappointing.

This perfume has a powerful pheromonal allure that will take one by surprise. I remember back in those days, reading about it and how people said it smelled like stale urine. I laughed it off and pursued it with a blind purchase. After all, I loved, and still love, Orientals. The first thing I did once the bottle arrived, I remove the cap and take a whiff. "Oh my God, it does smell exactly like stale urine!". The rumors were true. As shocking as it came off, somehow, it had a weird appeal that I couldn't place. I sprayed it on. I wore it. And the more I did, the more I fell for it. A deep, carnal scent. The interplay of polarizing notes such as Cumin, Frankincense, and Beeswax, alongside other Oriental notes and accords, created this deep sensuality that seemed out of an ancient Roman or Egyptian banquet. To me, this perfume is all about the frankincense, the honey and the beeswax, and of course, the main course, the one and only, the cumin note. Few other notes play along, such as the rose and the benzoin in the dry-down. I believe it is the combination of the major players mentioned that creates the "stale urine" accord. And oh boy, it is so vivid. At times, the perfume has an almost "churchy" feel in the most Unholy way. But when you stroll at night in Paris, especially on the smaller and less-frequented alleys, you'll realize why Francis chose the name for it. It smells just like Paris at night. And some people will understand where I'm coming from. Years since I got this perfume, the stale urine accord has not left my mind, it just became more tame, or perhaps I learned to enjoy it. In my books, this perfume is a work of art, a carnal use of frankincense, cumin, and honey to exude an Oriental extravaganza like few compositions manage to capture.

IG:@memory.of.scents

Oriscent Royal Guallam. My love for Vietnamese oils pushes me to taste as many as possible, although I'll probably stop for now as I find myself running out of skin and having too many oils to swipe.

I find Royal Guallam a rather minimalist oud oil compared to other Vietnamese oils I have, yet if one zooms in, he'll discover facets that at a distant glance, might pass unnoticed. The opening is typical Oriscent, after which the oil becomes a green-golden-hued chord that stays like that till the end. Bitter and medicinal, green, tannic almost, with a honeyed facet that never steers overly sweet. It harbors a nice dusty texture that stays throughout. But there is more to it if you lean forward. What I have discovered in this oil, after multiple tests to make sure I'm not imagining, is a most peculiar floracy. Something I have not encountered with other Vietnamese oils. It has a subtle floral smell that makes me think of blossom flowers. Generally, blossoms have no scent, or they have a faint one, slightly fruity and fresh. There is also a faint cherry note that lingers alongside the subtle floracy, therefore I like to think of this peculiar floral note in Royal Guallam as a "Cherry Blossom" accord. An abstract cherry blossom tree, its scent carried away by the springtime wind. Again, these facets are faint and detectable if the oil is sniffed closely. And that is why I find this particular oil so intriguing. It feels simple yet harbors more meaning to it. Much like a Haiku 俳句, it tells a short poem that anchors a deeper meaning.

IG:@memory.of.scents

Oriscent Hyang Kang. Supposedly a sister distillation to Royal Kinam 1. When I first applied this oil, I thought, "Definitely a sister distillation". Immediately, I reached for my RK and swiped it. Not only to confirm but to better contrast the two. Wearing oils from the same region, and in this case, the same harvest always proves a meaningful and rewarding learning experience. Once you do this, the oils will strip each other off. The similarities will become less noticeable, while the differences will stand out. In this case, wearing HK next to RK made me realize how sweet RK is. It made me see the golden honey note in it and the sweetness it bears. The green facet which adjoins it. I always thought RK is a bitter oil, maybe the most bitter I have ever tried. Till now. HK is the red, devlish sister of RK. Even more bitter, spicy, red, hot, with a steaming metallic facet in the opening. It bears the same vaporous, brain-piercing quality while being just as medicinal with amplified bitterness. Its sweetness is minimal and only shows up in the dry-down. A most shallow honeyed facet. It feels fiery, spicy, and aromatic. A scent long gone and impossible to capture again. An old wood scent, ancient and grounding. It is an amazing oil that can stand proudly next to oils like Royal Kinam and Kyara Koutan. This trio, to me, is the hallmark of oils that possess powerful numbing and therapeutic qualities. These oils are for the mind and spirit. It is not my favorite cuisine, as I'm more drawn to the deep sensuality of Malaysians, Borneos, and even Indians. But nothing commands more focus than oils like Hyang Kang.

IG:@memory.of.scents

Chêne is the first perfume that comes to mind when I think about Autumn. To me, this is Autumn in a bottle. It is one of my favorites from the house of Lutens. I remember how perplexed I was trying it for the first time, in the shop. It was an eye-opening moment for me. I never thought that perfumery could be like this, more than an accessory to complement your outfit or to get attention. This is a perfect perfume for a Lumberjack. One with fine tastes. Because, although it smells unusual, and true to nature, it is handled with a gentle touch and much refinement. There is a strong Oak Wood accord that Birch Wood and some nutty qualities complement very well. Additionally, you get a honeyed sweetness as well as some faint rum. While spices, immortelle, and soft leather round up the composition. What makes me think of Autumn is the usage of warm, sweet notes such as honey, rum, and nuts, blended with the scent of oak logs and smoke. Like a cabin in the woods, sitting next to a warm fireplace and sipping your favorite hot beverage. Likewise, the composition has a strong outdoorsy character and will satisfy people who enjoy foresty scents. And even though it sounds like a rougher around-edge perfume, it is surprisingly elegant and sophisticated. It behaves gently and never feels cloying or overpowering. When I tried Chêne for the first time I was in total awe because I love the smell of Oak and I could have never imagined it captured so well in a perfume, but also because it smelled so unique. Since then, a few indie and artisanal houses attempted this theme but none managed to pull the balance Christopher had struck here. Much like all the other perfumes in the line, or at least the very best, it is a unique piece of olfaction that will always rank among the best Lutens-Sheldrake creations ever, for me.

IG:@memory.of.scents