DrB1414

Chêne is the first perfume that comes to mind when I think about Autumn. To me, this is Autumn in a bottle. It is one of my favorites from the house of Lutens. I remember how perplexed I was trying it for the first time, in the shop. It was an eye-opening moment for me. I never thought that perfumery could be like this, more than an accessory to complement your outfit or to get attention. This is a perfect perfume for a Lumberjack. One with fine tastes. Because, although it smells unusual, and true to nature, it is handled with a gentle touch and much refinement. There is a strong Oak Wood accord that Birch Wood and some nutty qualities complement very well. Additionally, you get a honeyed sweetness as well as some faint rum. While spices, immortelle, and soft leather round up the composition. What makes me think of Autumn is the usage of warm, sweet notes such as honey, rum, and nuts, blended with the scent of oak logs and smoke. Like a cabin in the woods, sitting next to a warm fireplace and sipping your favorite hot beverage. Likewise, the composition has a strong outdoorsy character and will satisfy people who enjoy foresty scents. And even though it sounds like a rougher around-edge perfume, it is surprisingly elegant and sophisticated. It behaves gently and never feels cloying or overpowering. When I tried Chêne for the first time I was in total awe because I love the smell of Oak and I could have never imagined it captured so well in a perfume, but also because it smelled so unique. Since then, a few indie and artisanal houses attempted this theme but none managed to pull the balance Christopher had struck here. Much like all the other perfumes in the line, or at least the very best, it is a unique piece of olfaction that will always rank among the best Lutens-Sheldrake creations ever, for me.

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Koh Kong Imperiale from Imperial Oud.

This is the type of Oud Oil you swipe people who think they hate oud to give them a mind f*k. Gourmand is the best way to call it. Steamed milk, abundant honey, cinnamon, and plenty of raspberries and strawberries. Delicious. It is a comfort oil, a crave oil, not an olfactory exercise or a meditative, contemplating oil. Pure delight, sweet, creamy, just lay back and enjoy.

Now, I can't help but mention that this oil smells almost identical to the infamous Koh Kong 4K from Agar Aura. I swiped both on each arm and had to think over where I swiped each because I couldn't tell them apart for the first two hours. The difference is in the base, where the 4K has this green-bitter and high-frequency buzz, feeling more ethereal and crystalline, whereas the Imperiale stays grounded by this creamy honey-like quality. Honestly, I prefer the Imperiale. It just fits better with my aesthetic. It has more base to it and overall feels more satisfying. An amazing feat from the IO team. Usually, when you hear vendors say: "My oil smells similar to X" or "It is identical, just even better" you do the side-by-side and realize it's nonsense almost always. Pushed by the vendors or reassuring thoughts from the buyers. But now and then, you get a Koh Kong Imperiale to tip the balance and bring a quality that can rival some of the more legendary and expensive oils. Thumbs up!

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Irisoir from Sultan Pasha. Easily ranks among my favorite Orris-based compositions.

An Iris perfume with a vintage touch and a Victorian flair, incredibly rich and sumptuous. It smells so thick and creamy that I feel like it's choking me if inhaled deeply. Being an attar and a base-heavy composition, it feels rather monolithic, almost not progressing much, yet it does. However, slowly and over a long period. The top phase is consumed quickly, and the heart and base spend a long time on the skin. There is a hint of spiciness and some zesty fruits in the opening and after, it's full-on Orris. It is slightly punctuated by other florals such as candied violets and spicy carnations. The Orris, however, is the star of the show. Powdery, creamy, almost cocoa-like at times. The overall buttery texture might render a chocolaty sensation, occasionally. And what better way to complement this beautiful material than by marrying it to sandalwood and ambergris? Both show themselves more as the perfume consumes on the skin, but the Orris always feels in control. The refreshing zesty fruitiness from the opening is stretched long into the heart of the composition, and almost into the dry-down, and that is why I say that it feels like it has no progression, but I think it is rather a slow and seamless process that makes everything feel so compact and dare I say, monolithic. A beauty of an attar. Alluring, dark with an edge, full of glamour, and decadently rich in both texture and flavor.

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An amazing Malaysian oud oil from the Sultan's vault, Purple Malay. This one has many decades' worth of aging behind its back. Even though I didn't vibe with the SQ oils I tried, this one is much more polished and refined than the rest. As smooth as OR 1 and Oud Sultani, but of course not at that level of depth and density. Nothing off-putting. No fermentation, no smoke, no leather. As the name suggests, it is a vividly purple oud oil. It smells of violets. Although, it doesn't have the powdery aspects or that candied sweetness. I'd much rather compare the smell to these stripped squills, which share some facets with viola odorata, but they have more of a zesty-green, rubbery aroma. Comparing the oil and the squills brings about remarkable similarities. Of course, there is more going on in the oud oil. A camphoraceous vapor popping in and out, the smooth and dark Malay woody core, the resinous quality, hints of pepper, and even cocoa powder. The floral tonality, however, is always present. The oil doesn't transition much in a vertical direction but rather evolves horizontally, with certain facets circling in and out. The profile is refined, clean, and smooth. I have rarely come across such finesse with these traditional oils. A dark, purple, and slightly green oud oil. Zesty green facets, vaporous at times, intensely floral, sweet oleoresin, and dark Malay core. Blissful.

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Oriscent Pusong LTD. Difficult to imagine a Laotian oil that can rise to the heights of Royal Kinam, Kyara Koutan, Hyang Kang, Nha Trang LTD, Kyara LTD, and the like, but this one proves that theory of mine wrong. A Laotian Oud Oil that delivers in that therapeutic/medicinal department yet boasts more of a mellow and satisfying profile than all those mentioned above.

The opening showcases that same bitter-medicinal, kinamic smoke accord, yet it doesn't feel sharp and brain-piercing, but rather mellow like fatty clouds of fine smoke dancing around you. It envelops your senses in a warm and anxiolytic embrace rather than serving you an espresso shot, like some of the previously mentioned. It's much sweeter also. I'd say the sweetest of the bunch, no hesitation. Strong honey-like sweetness. A golden-hued oil. After that initial smoke cloud clears off, the oil has this powdery texture. Powdery wood, honey, and some milky and pollenesque-like facets. I can't get the pollen association out of my mind. I have consumed raw pollen daily for several years now and love its taste and texture. Smelling this oil makes me reminisce about its qualities on my palate, over and over again. The thing that I noticed with Pusong, is that it shifts texture significantly throughout the wear. From powdery and hazy to focused and tangible. In the later stages, the woodiness becomes concentrated and palpable, and the honey feels crystalized now, almost sugary. As I mentioned earlier, this is a sweet oil. The milky quality stays throughout, but dims with time. It is equally soothing as it is delicious and satisfying. Golden is the perfect color for it. It has a strong presence although it never feels heavy or overwhelming. I would not hesitate to say it is the apex for all Laotian oils, certainly out of the ones that I have tried so far.

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