Chêne Serge Lutens 2004

Chêne is the first perfume that comes to mind when I think about Autumn. To me, this is Autumn in a bottle. It is one of my favorites from the house of Lutens. I remember how perplexed I was trying it for the first time, in the shop. It was an eye-opening moment for me. I never thought that perfumery could be like this, more than an accessory to complement your outfit or to get attention. This is a perfect perfume for a Lumberjack. One with fine tastes. Because, although it smells unusual, and true to nature, it is handled with a gentle touch and much refinement. There is a strong Oak Wood accord that Birch Wood and some nutty qualities complement very well. Additionally, you get a honeyed sweetness as well as some faint rum. While spices, immortelle, and soft leather round up the composition. What makes me think of Autumn is the usage of warm, sweet notes such as honey, rum, and nuts, blended with the scent of oak logs and smoke. Like a cabin in the woods, sitting next to a warm fireplace and sipping your favorite hot beverage. Likewise, the composition has a strong outdoorsy character and will satisfy people who enjoy foresty scents. And even though it sounds like a rougher around-edge perfume, it is surprisingly elegant and sophisticated. It behaves gently and never feels cloying or overpowering. When I tried Chêne for the first time I was in total awe because I love the smell of Oak and I could have never imagined it captured so well in a perfume, but also because it smelled so unique. Since then, a few indie and artisanal houses attempted this theme but none managed to pull the balance Christopher had struck here. Much like all the other perfumes in the line, or at least the very best, it is a unique piece of olfaction that will always rank among the best Lutens-Sheldrake creations ever, for me.

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