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03/20/2022
BrianBuchanan
355 Reviews
BrianBuchanan
Helpful Review
5
A Good Sport
Released in 1982, Trophée is a sporty green scent; and - as such - is in the same family as Lauder’s Alliage (1972) which was marketed to women.
It’s a fresh woody-citrus, which has a lime head and a small jasmine heart, and because it has both masculine and feminine tropes (woody citrus, floral) it’s possible to read Trophée as a mixed scent. This reading is backed up by an advert from 1983, where a bottle is flanked by two golfers; one male, the other female.
1982 was the year when Vanderbilt was released for women, and Quorum was on the guy side of the aisle. In this context, we can see how the Trophée’s citrus and jasmine doesn’t fit with the gender stereotypes of the day; it’s neither a heady tuberose Amber nor a barbershop fougère. In fact, in this regard, Trophée has more in common with the citrus, green tea and florals of cK One; which in 1994, rejected ‘his’ and ‘hers’ perfumery by declaring itself androgynous; a shared perfume for him ‘and’ her. Trophée was around long before that, and even though its gender positioning was subtle, almost below the radar, Trophée was, to some extent, a pioneer of the modern gender-neutral perfume.
In terms of its structure, with it’s light character and short persistence Trophée lies somewhere between the cologne and an EdT. In this sense it feels like an earlier release from the same house, Ô de Lancôme (1969).
Trophée is a light and pleasant Green scent, which is not the easiest thing to do in perfumery. Credit should go to the unknown perfumer who worked on it, they did a good job.
I hope the 2002 version is the same, but with moss in the formula it’s likely to be different.
It’s a fresh woody-citrus, which has a lime head and a small jasmine heart, and because it has both masculine and feminine tropes (woody citrus, floral) it’s possible to read Trophée as a mixed scent. This reading is backed up by an advert from 1983, where a bottle is flanked by two golfers; one male, the other female.
1982 was the year when Vanderbilt was released for women, and Quorum was on the guy side of the aisle. In this context, we can see how the Trophée’s citrus and jasmine doesn’t fit with the gender stereotypes of the day; it’s neither a heady tuberose Amber nor a barbershop fougère. In fact, in this regard, Trophée has more in common with the citrus, green tea and florals of cK One; which in 1994, rejected ‘his’ and ‘hers’ perfumery by declaring itself androgynous; a shared perfume for him ‘and’ her. Trophée was around long before that, and even though its gender positioning was subtle, almost below the radar, Trophée was, to some extent, a pioneer of the modern gender-neutral perfume.
In terms of its structure, with it’s light character and short persistence Trophée lies somewhere between the cologne and an EdT. In this sense it feels like an earlier release from the same house, Ô de Lancôme (1969).
Trophée is a light and pleasant Green scent, which is not the easiest thing to do in perfumery. Credit should go to the unknown perfumer who worked on it, they did a good job.
I hope the 2002 version is the same, but with moss in the formula it’s likely to be different.
1 Comment
ChicoRoch1
Guapo
