Kurai
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Kurai
Italian grail
It is hard to come across this little gem. Enrico Buccella operates locally and is not well-known outside of Italy. In certain circles this self-taught master perfumer from Umbria has reached legendary status, also with the Cerchi Nell'Acqua label. Get your nose on Kyprus and you will understand why.
At the core of Kyprus lies a rose-sandalwood. Soft, well-rounded and almost sparkling at times. Underneath lies a blend of civet and ambergris. Though not full-on animalic, these base notes are profoundly strong and create a kaleidoscopic ambery effect. I get a leathery facet at first, some iodine and salty bits later. The softer rose-woody notes get enveloped by them completely. But it is the way these softer and sharper notes interlock that makes this a floral amber that stands out. The quality of the materials is evident as they not only remain intact but keep getting better into the late drydown. Of course, the fuzzy warm musk plays a significant role in creating that everlasting sense of comfort.
Not the easiest wear perhaps, but an unforgettable experience and well-worth the search. Awesome!
At the core of Kyprus lies a rose-sandalwood. Soft, well-rounded and almost sparkling at times. Underneath lies a blend of civet and ambergris. Though not full-on animalic, these base notes are profoundly strong and create a kaleidoscopic ambery effect. I get a leathery facet at first, some iodine and salty bits later. The softer rose-woody notes get enveloped by them completely. But it is the way these softer and sharper notes interlock that makes this a floral amber that stands out. The quality of the materials is evident as they not only remain intact but keep getting better into the late drydown. Of course, the fuzzy warm musk plays a significant role in creating that everlasting sense of comfort.
Not the easiest wear perhaps, but an unforgettable experience and well-worth the search. Awesome!
Out of this world
For a long time, I was clueless as to why Kurkdjian is considered a master of his craft. I mean, what he has released lately under Dior and his MFK label is far from impressive - in my humble opinion - and with every new release my bias against his work only grew stronger.
Well, that has changed since I know APOM Femme. This, ladies and gentlemen, is conventional perfumery at its best. This is unicorn material, worthy of the legendary status that Kurkdjian has.
APOM is a traditional floral-woody with an ultra-feminine and "perfumey" appearance. It is minimalist in the sense that there are only a few notes that stand out clearly, but its elegance and opulence is anything but minimalist.
The opening notes combine full regale florals with a slight freshness. Ylang-ylang makes the heart together with a soft powdery amber. The acidity of orange blossom is well-dosed, just enough to spice up these softer notes. Also, the cedar note - which is out of this world, by the way - contributes to that chique feminine feel that makes this perfume so special.
This could be worn casually during the day, but it is too good for that. It deserves a special treatment and truly shines when dressed to the nines.
Well, that has changed since I know APOM Femme. This, ladies and gentlemen, is conventional perfumery at its best. This is unicorn material, worthy of the legendary status that Kurkdjian has.
APOM is a traditional floral-woody with an ultra-feminine and "perfumey" appearance. It is minimalist in the sense that there are only a few notes that stand out clearly, but its elegance and opulence is anything but minimalist.
The opening notes combine full regale florals with a slight freshness. Ylang-ylang makes the heart together with a soft powdery amber. The acidity of orange blossom is well-dosed, just enough to spice up these softer notes. Also, the cedar note - which is out of this world, by the way - contributes to that chique feminine feel that makes this perfume so special.
This could be worn casually during the day, but it is too good for that. It deserves a special treatment and truly shines when dressed to the nines.
Sahara desert
It is not so hard to guess that this was inspired by the Sahara with its sand dunes and hot desert wind. Not just the name, but also the scent profile are pretty obvious clues. Prin isn't the first one to come with such a concept, after all. Thanks to Andy Tauer most of us already have an idea of what this smells like.
Sahar opens with a really nice amber. A bit leathery but not wildly animalic. As you would expect from something with a Sahara desert theme, it has a dry-spicy feel to it. Frankincense, coriander and a dried fruit note, among others, are clearly perceivable. Prin has his own way of putting together all these notes, though. There is a specific woody-earthy dryness in the drydown that can be found in several of his perfumes.
So the concept may not be the most innovative. It is the execution that stands out here. This dry-spicy Sahara feel is there quite obviously, while the perfume wears light and easy - won't feel out of place in any casual setting.
Sahar opens with a really nice amber. A bit leathery but not wildly animalic. As you would expect from something with a Sahara desert theme, it has a dry-spicy feel to it. Frankincense, coriander and a dried fruit note, among others, are clearly perceivable. Prin has his own way of putting together all these notes, though. There is a specific woody-earthy dryness in the drydown that can be found in several of his perfumes.
So the concept may not be the most innovative. It is the execution that stands out here. This dry-spicy Sahara feel is there quite obviously, while the perfume wears light and easy - won't feel out of place in any casual setting.
Retro time
A chilly austere expression with a modest warmth in the core. The scent opens with a sparkling juicy citrus and settles relatively fast in a mossy base with fragments of leather and amber. There's some basil going on as well, which leaves a bit of a masculine impression. The application of moss is particularly impressive. It is not so much complex but it is nevertheless deeply comforting and never harsh or dank. If you're in for a retro-style chypre, this is your thing. One of the 'truest' in its genre.
Carnation chokehold
The carnation takes a moment to emerge but as soon it does the cloud of this powdery-spicy floral gets so dense and palpable, it grabs you by the throat. Cloves are added without any restraint - as well as musks - but that is about as far as the composition goes. A carnation soliflor, I suppose? It appears a retro vibe à la "Œillet Louis XV (2012) | Oriza L. Legrand" was the aim here, but it turned out a caricature of extreme proportions. In fairness, the initial chokehold sensation is gone after a while and the musks do a decent job. Still, it missed the mark overall if you ask me.
