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Floyd
Top Review
56
Take up thy caleidoscope and walk
In your search for new shores, you look through the flesh of lime tree roots like through a theater glass. You feel no waves, there's just a little salt off the bow in the billowing mists, drops of citrus oils swirling inside like spray from the flora of foreign islands. Take your kaleidoscope, start walking. Cypress crowns appear, disappear in the incense above the beaches, behind them you spy furry soils that rise and fall as they breathe. Bellies of klipshrike-like creatures, warm spicy amber bubbles bursting like flowing slides in honey, slow motion over dirty blossoms writhing on the ground, withering away, becoming one with the resinous earths.
Oh, Fiona, you should see this! All the leathery osmanthus blossoms in silky shimmering beaver dresses. How the resin grains create new images whenever we turn the prism. How the sandalwood planks now drift away to dust, to soft smoke over rotten bark, distant clouds of beluga vanilla reflected in dark amber lakes in the heart of the innermost islands.
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New Oceans And Meridians (N.O.A.M. Botanical Perfumes) is an olfactory space-time travel agency, leaving familiar shores, creating visually stunning art, surrounding you with faraway places, enveloping you in adventure and being totally wearable. The Swiss label uses only high-quality natural raw materials for its complex compositions. It maintains personal contact with small distilleries, retailers and manufacturers. Once again, it is the rarity of the sometimes expensive materials that forces the small manufactory to limit the edition to twenty bottles.
The fact that you discover new facets every time you wear it is probably the reason for the name. "The Ambergris Caleidoscope" begins with light green, rooty-esperidic notes (kaffir lime, bergamot) over gently animalic-resinous (hyraceum, elemi) aromas. Sometimes it is the neroli that makes its presence felt in the opening with incense resins, interwoven with the ethereal Corsican cypress. Under the subtly salty ambergris, the animal notes soon become somewhat clearer, the warm spicy vegan black musk attar and the hyraceum are sometimes underlined by slightly indolic jasmine, then again by leathery facets (civet, osmanthus). In this phase, the fragrance reminds me of Fiona by TSVGA. A labdanum-like honey initially forms the backbone of the heart alongside the ambergris, alternating with rotten bark (oud) against a smoky background of sandalwood powder, dark vanilla, black sacra incense and various resins. In the base, amber and benzoin in particular form the depth of the lake underneath, which lingers on the skin for a long time. The kaleidoscope is surprisingly transparent and multi-layered in its complexity of notes and remains moderate in its projection.
