Patchouli lovers pay attention - this is a special Patchouli fragrance!
The so-called half-shrub, which belongs to the family of labiates, plays a not quite unimportant role in many perfumes, or rather, in many of them. Patchouli can often be found in the base notes, mostly in combination with resinous and bitter-mossy notes and therefore an integral part of almost every chypre scent, at least of the classical type.
But sometimes it also comes to the fore, especially since the hippie movement discovered raw patchouli oils in the second half of the 1960s.
The big perfume houses reacted quite quickly and from the patchouli that had been in use for so long, but always remained in the second or even third row, suddenly became the protagonist par excellence in fragrances like 'Gentleman' by Givenchy or 'Aromatics Elixir' by Clarins.
A few years later, this characteristic dry, aromatic and woody fragrant leaf was also allowed to succeed in an oriental environment: Etro's 'Patchouly' or Mazzolari's fragrance of the same name are representative of the many Patchouli soliflores that have adorned almost every extensive range of fragrances from various manufacturers since the 1970s and 1980s. Even the really big houses didn't let themselves get ragged and didn't come around the corner too long ago with two supposed high-end patchoulis: Chanel's 'Coromandel' and Dior's 'Patchouli Imperial'.
The complex fragrance of this semi-shrub, native to the Asian region, seems to be a source of inspiration even after so many years, and despite all the oud hype, which always produces new creations.
Santi Burgas 'Palindrom II' is another Patchouli-centered work, which I find to be new in a way, although it declares almost all known facets of the Patchoulis: the woody, aromatic, dry-dusty, almost creaky nuances as well as the soft and powdery - all there.
But much more than that.
As if a (nasal) film were running in my head: from far away I see/smell the gothic-earthy patchouli oils of long ago childhood days (together with the corresponding pictures) and the closer I get to my arm scented with 'Palindrom II', the more clearly the dark musty basic tone transforms into Chanel's silky chocolaty patchouli confection of these days. If I remove my nose again a piece from my arm, I take the creaky, unplaned was again, which many also find so terrible. Directly on my arm, however, the patchouli smells very delicate and civilized - quite 'Coromandel'-like, accentuated by fine spice and subtle sweetness.
But, Rodrigo Flores-Roux wouldn't be himself if he hadn't given something to this, his work, which he apparently appreciates very much - a clear, but for my sensation quite discreet animalism, and above all: leather.
Rodrigo Flores-Roux loves leather. Not only the scent of leather in all its shades, he also likes to wear it.
This patchouli fragrance is based on a quiet animalistic leather chord, which does not develop dominance - patchouli is and remains the centre of the fragrance - but gives it an extremely erotic kick.
Maybe you have to have a certain leather fetish (I do have one) to enjoy this combination - multi-faceted patchouli, leather and animalism is not everyone's cup of tea.
But there are definitely more solid variants, at least when it comes to leather and animalism, which even go too far for me as a hard-boiled leather lover: Montale's 'Oud Cuir d'Arabie' would be one such example.
No, fortunately 'Palindrom II' is far away from such rough goat fumes: no offensive animalism, but rather a sensual erotic aura, at least for me. Sensitive noses may not be able to follow me completely, but - as I said - I love leather too, with (almost) all its animal exhalations.
This sensual twist makes 'Palindrom II' a very special patchouli fragrance for me - I've never seen one with such erotic vibes before. And if I wanted to find a comparable erotic-sensuous scent, I would first think of 'Musc Ravageur' - although in no way similarly scented, I feel it in the base similarly addictive-maintainingly erotic.
What remains to be reported: 'Palindrom II' has a good endurance and after an initially loud start a rather moderate projection. The development of the fragrance ranges from pungent / light spicy to dark spicy to woody leathery, without dramatic twists and perfectly blended.
The deep black, round bottle with the large, dark wooden lid (from sustainable European forestry can be read on the cardboard box - hear, hear, sustainability/sustainability is also being introduced here!) fits in wonderfully with the content, which, if I had to choose a suitable colour to describe the fragrance, only the label 'Black' could imprint on it.
Oh yes, the leather-wearing, moustache-bearded Mexican perfumer supposedly wears this scent himself:
"Rodrigo Flores-Roux was the most animated and excited when speaking to me about Santi Burgas Palindrome II, the scent he wears most often himself," says Michelyn Camen of 'ÇaFleurBon'.
I think it fits.
