05/10/2021
Intersport
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Intersport
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A match made?
Every time I'm in Paris, if I'm near the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, Oriza, Maître Parfumeur, etc., I always move one arrondissement over, to the Second, Rue Sainte-Anne, 51 bis. Épices Rœllinger, initiated by the highly interesting chef Olivier Roellinger, is a spice shop specializing in vintage vanilla, exotic peppers and a whole range of very own spice blends that can hold a candle to any visit to a perfumery in terms of sensory experience. Nowadays every child knows that spice blends are no longer in vogue and that every masala has to be mixed by oneself, and that, thanks to Alfons, spice blends from celebrity chefs are also just a good cash cow, but what Mr. Roellinger and his team have been mixing and tasting for years is so next-level, that I always get weak and always return from Paris with more grams of spice than ounces of perfume
Roellinger, who just as publicity aware gave back his Michelin stars years ago, has been running a restaurant near Cancale, Betragne, for a good 30 years that focuses on sea creatures, flotsam and jetsam, and anything else that thrives in or near the water. This mix of spice trade, colonial as post, sea, and flavor was the starting point for Épice Marine, and when I learned about it, I knew: a match made in heaven somewhere between Ellena's house near Roudnitska and Roellinger's Cancale cuisine.
Had I not been so conditioned by the Roellingian spices, I would certainly be a bit more gracious with Épice Marine, but unfortunately I was not met by a Breton-Atlantic breeze, no spice fireworks, but a water very close to Déclaration and distantly also to Eau d'Hermès (which I have appreciated, but now in its, albeit in the meantime repeatedly changed, original form)
The maritime aspect is supposedly here again implemented by Algenone, the same that was already used in Goutal's Vétiver, certainly in higher doses. I organized myself a sample of Algenone at the time - in Épice Marine, it either has to be used minimally or is absorbed into the cumin blend or embedded too well. Aquatik remains one of perfumery's unsolved problems. In theory, highly sympathetic, in practice virtually unattainable because of the complexity, complexity and local differences that make up this smellable terroir. In Paris, so somehow almost in the middle on Ellena-Roellinger route, far from the sea smells Épice Marine perhaps a touch more associative, I continue to stay with Roellinger's blends, vanillas, Eau d'Hermès, Eau du Campagne, and if spicy-maritime with Goutal's Vétiver or the synth-pop of Kenzo pour Homme.
Roellinger, who just as publicity aware gave back his Michelin stars years ago, has been running a restaurant near Cancale, Betragne, for a good 30 years that focuses on sea creatures, flotsam and jetsam, and anything else that thrives in or near the water. This mix of spice trade, colonial as post, sea, and flavor was the starting point for Épice Marine, and when I learned about it, I knew: a match made in heaven somewhere between Ellena's house near Roudnitska and Roellinger's Cancale cuisine.
Had I not been so conditioned by the Roellingian spices, I would certainly be a bit more gracious with Épice Marine, but unfortunately I was not met by a Breton-Atlantic breeze, no spice fireworks, but a water very close to Déclaration and distantly also to Eau d'Hermès (which I have appreciated, but now in its, albeit in the meantime repeatedly changed, original form)
The maritime aspect is supposedly here again implemented by Algenone, the same that was already used in Goutal's Vétiver, certainly in higher doses. I organized myself a sample of Algenone at the time - in Épice Marine, it either has to be used minimally or is absorbed into the cumin blend or embedded too well. Aquatik remains one of perfumery's unsolved problems. In theory, highly sympathetic, in practice virtually unattainable because of the complexity, complexity and local differences that make up this smellable terroir. In Paris, so somehow almost in the middle on Ellena-Roellinger route, far from the sea smells Épice Marine perhaps a touch more associative, I continue to stay with Roellinger's blends, vanillas, Eau d'Hermès, Eau du Campagne, and if spicy-maritime with Goutal's Vétiver or the synth-pop of Kenzo pour Homme.
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