The Mariner's Rhyme Francesca Bianchi 2024

However, such a repetitive return is basically no longer true: aquatic fragrances are too constant, too regular, the genre has become just as established as chypre or fougère in earlier decades - at the same time, more daring or playful aquatic fragrances are appearing in dribs and drabs rather than waves of boring or at best mediocre interpretations. As a non-Bianchi fan to date, I was surprised by Mariner's Rhyme and immediately taken with it. The fragrance seems familiar, but far from the reference material, I had to wait with my interpretation.

PVC or rubber boat associations don't really come to mind, just as little as the chypre closeness or an 'animalic' iris mentioned by the author - probably rather keywords or sailor's yarn to keep the Bianchi regular audience on the ball? Iris is central here, a superficially matte but non-powdery and thoroughly juicy iris note, which is also the link to the perfume I immediately thought of: Pluie Noire, by Parfumerie Particulière, where the iris plus chlorine-like 'aquatic' note, which is located in a deeper spectrum overall, provides a basic framework for darker, floral-spicy notes. Pluie Noire, on the other hand, I assume references to the old versions of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Garrigue (1998), Jean François Laporte's successful dihydromyrcenol experiment.

The combination of iris + chlorine-like also results in an almost cinnamon-like note in Mariner's Rhyme, which is industrially effectively illuminated with a good dose of ozone-like, slightly aniseed-laden aldehydes (mermaid's apt high-altitude sun association). These also seem to prevent the profile from drifting into mustiness or staleness - a 'feature' that has become almost genre-typical in many less successful aquatics. A crisp but not unambiguous Hesperia blend also freshens things up; the household cleaner notes I've appreciated before [à la Soda (2006) or Saint Mariner (2018)] are only hinted at. Driftwood/artwood-like and profane incense aspects form a nebulous base that functions well as a base but obscures too clear identities of the stated pyramid bark foundation.

Of course, this fragrance is profoundly artificial and it is precisely this artificiality that I demand in good aquatic fragrances, and 'realo' interpretations such as Sel Marin (2008) are more like textbook pieces from the established perfume schools than convincing creations - they are also ultimately doomed to failure or at least disappointment; the olfactory space 'sea' is too complex, too diverse and too dynamic - fortunately.

The Mariner's Rhyme harmonizes as a whole, is very well blended and also independent enough to position itself alongside Pluie Noire. Anyone who appreciates the peculiarity of the latter, the chlorine-like quality of La Piscine (2019) or the ginger-grapefruit scrubbing agent of Askew (2008), or even the complex citrus notes including the finest calone nuances of Riviera Verbena (2022), will probably have few problems with The Mariner's Rhyme. If you want something a little less high-pitched but don't want to miss the return of the ... good aquatic fragrances this year, Dusita's Pelagos also plays with a soapy, somewhat calmer iris/aquatic combination and Rubini's Hyperion (both 2024) clearly flirted with maritime incense, at least in the preliminary version.

With many thanks to Friesin, who made me even more curious with her hymn-like review, and I was only too happy to stand in for Neu-Altlast Abnahme.